With other members of the Lothian Sea Kayak Club we spent a lovely few days kayaking around Morvern, using the Highland Basecamp bunkhouse at Lochaline as a base.
The hostel itself is a great location, close to the Lochaline to Fishnish ferry. It boasts 14 rooms with twin bunks and an ensuite bathroom – luxurious! The bunkhouse has an absolutely enourmous and well-equipped kitchen and communal space, which served us well on a previous visit when we were unable to kayak due to storm Kathleen.
Sound of Mull
Having relatively few experienced leaders in the group we decided to split into two groups for safety but to keep each other in sight at all times. So arranged, we set off on day one for a paddle up the Sound of Mull. We launched from a spot opposite the Lochaline Hotel, allowing us to avoid the narrow entrance to the loch and the dangers of being run down by the ferry. However, it is also possible to launch from the marina inside Lochaline just down from the ferry terminal, with their permission.
A fairly stiff breeze saw us hugging the coastline as far as Fiunary, where we stopped for lunch – a tight squeeze onto a narrow beach, our planned landing site being obstructed by cows. We then returned the same way back, the wind now behind us and with sightings of dolphins along the opposite coast, and an otter by a couple of the group.
Distance paddled: 7.5miles
Ulva Paddle
The following day we decided to take advantage of our proximity to the ferry to cross to Mull and attempt a circumnavigation of Ulva. Not having paddled the area before we weren’t sure whether it would be possible to navigate the channel between Ulva and Gometra and therefore trollies were disassembled in preparation. It is possible to launch from the Ulva ferry slipway, taking care to avoid the ferry, the wildlife boat and any lobster fishermen also using the slipway. The facilities there, provided by the community trust, are excellent with plenty of car parking spaces and toilets (and showers!) available.
The South coast of Ulva was very interesting, with lots of the basalt columns more famously known on Staffa. Ulva is apparently also a good jumping off point for a paddle to Staffa – maybe next time! It quickly became apparent that a circumnavigation would be over-ambitious but we were determined to reach the bothy at Craigaig, some of the group having seen it featured on the BBC programme ‘Designing the Hebrides‘. There were a few skerries and rock hopping opportunities, as well as some caves that could do with some more exploration.
The bothy was picturesque as promised and made an excellent lunch location – luckily there was no one staying to be shocked by the appearance of 10 kayakers bearing sandwiches!
The paddle back made for some interesting wave conditions, with a reasonable amount of swell crossing from the South East and a few bits of clapotis and tidal interferance – not to mention the occasional bow wave from the wildlife boat. All navigated safely back to the ferry where we once again dodged lobster fisherman and two of us then rushed back to a posh dinner in the White House restaurant at Lochaline. The channel with Gometra remains an unknown but we will hopefully be back to complete the circuit.
Distance paddled: 9.5 miles
Loch Sunart
For our final day’s paddle as a group we chose the ‘gentle’ option of Loch Sunart, launching from the Southern shore just before Laudale. There was a good launch here with just about sufficient space for our 8 vehicles. We crossed to the Northern shore and had a pleasant paddle along looking out for otters and other wildlife along the tidal flats.
After a stop for lunch close to a hide we attempted the paddle back; at this point the already force 3 breeze had increased meaning that it was a bit of a slog into the wind as we paddled back up the loch, and we also encountered quite a bit of fetch as well as some interaction of the wind and the tide as we attempted to cross the loch. The squalls felt unending and as we neared the finish a group member’s paddle malfunctioned causing her to be blown against the shore, as well as a couple of other paddlers who attempted a rescue. Extraction was difficult due to the seaweed as the rescuers could not gain purchase and so the group leader pushed the affected people off from the shore. Not a particularly dangerous situation, but worth noting when paddling in seaweed! Crisis averted, we returned to our starting point and disbursed to various locations.
Distance paddled: 5.5 miles
Oban
I had chosen to stay on for an extra day of coaching with Laura at the excellent Sea Kayak Oban. A nod also to Oban Youth Hostel with its excellent drying room and free all day parking.
The weekend’s paddling had brought home to me the deficiencies in my forward paddling technique and therefore we focussed first on this, with Laura analysing my technique on the ergonomic kayaking machine before we took to the water. It turns out you are meant to move your hips as well as your core when you are paddling!
Later on we launched at Easedale in the hope of finding some swell and rougher conditions. These didn’t really materialise but we still managed to find some practice in turning in the wind and then a bit of judgement around rock hopping, tackling my fears of being dashed to pieces on rocks. Whether this lasts next time the waves are crashing remains to be seen.
Distance paddled: 5 miles
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