An early September trip to the island of Ulva to celebrate a club member’s milestone birthday. We stayed in the well-appointed Ulva Hostel, a basic but comfortable bunkhouse on the island. Our host Andy was both incredibly helpful and absolutely chock-full of knowledge about the island. I highly recommend a trip here for a taste of ‘off-grid’ living and a whole range of kayaking options.
Day 1 – The Convoy Arrives
Coordinating 18 of us to arrive at the Ulva Ferry simultaneously was no mean feat but we somehow acheived it bar a couple of stragglers. It was an easy and calm half mile paddle round to the hostel and the ferry man and Andy were more than accommodating at transporting our assorted food, gear and mysterious bags across via ferry and quad bike. There is an easy and sheltered landing spot down the hill from the hostel which Andy had kindly mown for us. This was however a wee bit boggy – not one for the winter months! They also use cattle to keep the bracken down so we had a welcoming committee of curious bullocks. The hostel itself has everything you could need (including a sauna!) although the water is a questionable shade of brown – I drank it for the full five days and came off none the worse but others may wish to boil it. The beds were very comfortable with a small shelf for your phone etc for those of us in a top bunk. Water pressure in the showers could be more powerful but given the hostel has no mains water it is difficult to quibble about this!
Day 2 – North Coast of Ulva
On our first proper day of paddling we took advantage of the shelter of Ulva to explore the Northern side of the islands. Departing from the hostel we set a leisurely pace exploring the islets and bays. The geology here is not as interesting as the Southern shore but you get a good view of the Eas Fors waterfall on Mull.
Rounding into a forested bay we were stared down by a formidable sea eagle perched on an outcrop, followed by an aerial display from its partner. This bay also included a number of barrel jellyfish, or ‘dustbin-lid jellyfish’ – wildlife aplenty!
On reaching the gap between Ulva and Gometra we could feel the force of the wind coming between the two islands. As we were an hour or so before low tide on a neap tide we weren’t able to paddle through the gap, but could get a good way in and under the bridge.
We paddled round the next headland but due to excessive amounts of whinging from some of the group (me) we decided to retrace our steps and we were boosted home by a slight following sea; a further dramatic sea eagle display; and amazing views of Ben More.
Distance paddled: 11 miles
Day 3 – South Ulva and Little Colonsay
With the best weather conditions of the trip some group members more intrepid than I set off for a paddle across to Staffa… maybe next year says I!
I joined the slower group for an exploration of the skerries on the South side of Ulva. The weather was better than forecast with very little swell and the promised winds failing to materialise. As described in a previous post, the southern side of Ulva has some interesting basalt pillars similar to those seen at Staffa, as well as some skerries which can be fun to explore depending on direction of swell etc.
Given the pleasant weather our group decided to press on to circumnavigate Little Colonsay, off the South West of Ulva. The conditions out here were slightly choppier, with a few breaking waves on the western side, and one of our group did experience an immersion (ie – he fell in…). Thankfully he was retrieved pretty quickly – makes all the time we spend practicing this at the end of sessions seem worthwhile. We provided an entertaining spectacle for the local seal population who turned up to gawp at the drama and no doubt judge our lack of aquatic finesse.
On the way back we were once again treated to a sea eagle display, but this was a long day and the headwind for the final mile or so made it tough going, coupled with seemingly every fishing boat on the West coast deciding to moor in the Sound of Ulva! Thankfully we made it back to the hostel and our welcoming party of local cows without incident.
Distance paddled: 16 miles
Exploring the Island, and Heading Home
Inspired by the previous night’s history and archaeology talk from our host Andy, I decided to spend the final day exploring the island on foot (and eating cake). The walks are extremely well marked and there are a variety of distances although even on the road the route was somewhat muddy and uneven and accessing some of the points of interest such as the standing stone or starvation row require a bit of trampling across bracken and bog.
It was worth braving the mud to make it to the excellent Boathouse where yet more BBC filming seemed to be taking place. We also had dinner here (by pre-arrangement, they aren’t usually open in the evenings) and it lived up to expectations on both occasions. The ‘Big House’ on the island is in the process of being renovated into a hotel by the ever-present Banjo Beale – looking forward to seeing this! I stopped by the walled garden next to the house which is lovingly maintained and worth a visit if you are on the island.
Fuelled by the previous night’s delicious meal and keen to get off the island ahead of incoming poor weather it was an early start the following morning. Managed to get on to a standby ferry from Craignure and even had a final glimpse of a sea eagle from the ferry before they receded to distant memory.
lardyarsecyclist.sport.blog 